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I should start by saying that while I use the Wirecutter for all sorts of things, I don't think their format works very well for clothes. That's bc clothes are not like appliances or gadgets; they don't make for easy comparison. Matters of fit, silhouette, and taste are critical.
A friend in the cashmere industry gave me a good analogy. "People who are into coffee have all sorts of ways to describe things," she said. "Coffee can be light or dark roast, washed or naturally processed, and have different notes. I wish ppl had the same language for clothes."
Instead of thinking there is a "best" slim-straight jean or a "best" budget jean, you should develop a clothing vocabulary. This helps you understand details and identify what *you* like. So this thread is to help you expand your denim vocabulary.
I'll start with my favorite: raw denim, which is denim that has not been pre-washed or -distressed. Prior to the 1970s, all denim was raw because stonewashing had not yet been invented. When you see photos of James Dean and mid-century rebels, they were wearing raw denim.
There's a reason why washed denim took over: it's softer and more comfortable out the box (raw denim is stiff at first, like cardboard). The dyes don't bleed, whereas raw denim can turn white couches blue until you break them in. And they're easy to maintain (throw into wash).
However, the fades look less natural. The advantage of raw denim is that if you're willing to put up with the break-in process and the weird washing methods, you can get a pair of jeans that looks *really* cool because they reflect your wear patterns.
Since these jeans are typically made from shuttle loom denim, often using interesting yarns, you get more texture, which can result in interesting fades. Processed denim is typically made on projectile looms that result in a smoother, more uniform fabric.
Oni Denim vs Gap:
If you're a nerd, like me, then raw denim can be as fun to explore as tailoring. Check out shops such as (my favorite), , , , Division Road, , , , and .
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The jeans in those stores tend to be expensive ($250+) partly bc they're made in countries with high wages (e.g., Japan), use slow production methods (e.g., shuttle looms), and have small production runs. For something more affordable, check out .
Their jeans are made in the USA with good materials, but since they sell directly to consumers through a pre-order window, they can offer raw denim jeans for ~$100. I like their new 1968 Vintage Straight Fit, as it's not too slim or fullโjust a nice straight leg with mid-rise
Heddels also has a nice store guide (it's always useful to shop in person, as you can try things on and talk to sales associates who can explain why something is special). Look for stores in your city:
Along with raw vs washed, shuttle vs projectile looms, another "flavor note" is weight. Like all fabrics, denim comes in different weights. ~14oz is good for year-round wear. For warmer climates, try something lighter. Or go heavier if you want something that feels bulletproof.
Wirecutter recommended slim-stretch jeans bc they're comfy. That's true, but stretch denim is harder to repair than pure cotton, esp if you use techniques like darning. Repairing not only keeps your clothes out of landfills, it allows you to keep wearing something you love.
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I mainly took issue with Wirecutter recommending $300 APC jeans because I think they're a poor value. They said that APCs are "well made" and have "designer pedigree." That's generally true, but I encourage you to question what specifically this means.
For instance, Stevenson Overall Co's jeans cost $315. They're made in Japan using raw denim woven vintage Toyoda looms and made from Zimbabwe cotton. They feature handmade belt loops, single needle stitching, and leather-backed buttons for added durability.
I don't have a pair of APC jeans here, but here's a pair of $330 Our Legacy jeans (also reasonably "well made" and have "designer pedigree"). I obviously like them, which is why I bought them, but you can see how they lack the construction above. Know what you're paying for.
The most important "flavor note" is silhouette, which is the shape (or cut) of your jeans. If you have a rock n roll style, maybe you want skinny, low rise jeans. If you want something to wear with sport coats, you'll want a mid-rise, straight legged cut.
There's no one cut that's best for everyone, even if two people have the same build, because much depends on your desired aesthetic and wardrobe. This is about *taste* and *cultural expression*. It's impossible to answer what are the "best jeans" without knowing more about you.
I'll end with a few recs: don't neglect classic brands like Levi's, Lee, and Wrangler. My friend wears a lot of bootcut Levi's and Wranglers. The second pic is of Wrangler Cowboy Cut bootcut jeans in rigid denim, which are just $40 retail.
You can also shop vintage. here can be seen wearing made-in-USA Levi's 501s from the 1980s and '90s. For vintage shopping, check Slash Denim (Berkeley), Front General Store (NYC), Wooden Sleepers (Tuckahoe), and of course eBay and Etsy.
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If you want to explore the world of high-end raw denim, check (the jeans below are from their shop). I've been recommending 's SL-100x as a starter jean for 10+ years. However, 's new 1968 Vintage Straight Fit is also great for under $100.
I know most people reading this thread are looking for an easy answerโa selection of maybe three items that they can click and buy. But I think the road towards finding the perfect pair of jeans is more complicated. It starts with building a vocabulary to identify "flavors."
By understanding differences in fabric, detailing, and cut, you can start to think about what makes the most sense for your build, wardrobe, and lifestyle. My hope is to move you a closer to finding something you LOVE, not just wear.
Sorry, I neglected to mention: I always *strongly* recommend shopping off-the-rack, as you can put things back on the rack if you don't like it. But if you need custom jeans, check out Todd Shelton, Williamsburg Garment Company, Blackhorse Lane Ateliers, and Raleigh Denim. If
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Genuine question: what about the environmental impact that jeans have? Is raw denim better in terms of water usage etc since they donโt stone wash it? Are you a fan of recycling old jeans to make new ones?
Yes, raw denim is more environmentally friendly, as you're not putting it through another process. Even more environmentally friendly are "naturally colored" jeans that didn't go through a dyeing process. Check for "Sally Fox" jeans.
Love this from you! Have you ever done a thread about clothes maintenance and storage?
Do you mean Wirecutter? They use affiliate links, but I wouldn't call them adverts. I've found their guides on appliances and gadgets to be useful. I just don't think clothes work in the same way
I love APC for Raw Denim - I love their program of being able to give them broken in pairs and getting 50% off a new pair. Is your thing with APC that it's too expensive or that there is better raw denim I should try that you listed below?
When it comes to buying clothes, the only things that matter are whether the clothes make you look and feel good, and if you're excited to wear them for years to come. This will vary from person to person. I just would not suggest $300 APC as "best straight leg."
I do not care for stretch jeans at all. They feel weird, and the waistbands never have enough firmness to them for the jeans to stay up and in place. I don't want my pants slipping down to the point I look like a rapper from 2004.
For me the most important thing is the fit really. waist to crotch ratio and big enough pockets to fit a card wallet and keys and a phone in.
After I hit those then I look at whats happening on the product otherwise.
I've just recently learned that Momotaro jeans can be returned to the factory to be repaired by hand, sometimes at no cost. I live in Japan and have no idea why I don't own any high quality raw denim, apart from a decent pair from Uniqlo. Any other recs for Japanese Denim?
Currently looking for a good sewing pattern for jeans if you have any advice
Why are even straight-cut men's jeans so hostile to men with thick thighs?
If my built-like-a-tree partner finds jeans he can comfortably squat in (usually just carpenter's), the waistband is at least two sizes too big & bunches weird with a belt as a result.
My favorite jeans, after spending hundreds and just tens, are Levi 501 shrink-to-fit. These are raw, wear awesome, and are affordable.
My second favorite I ever owned and will keep even though I donโt fit in them were made by Feltraiger (rip) in US
Thanks for the read! Can you go into more about what makes one prewashed/non-raw denim a better choice than another in the future?
Oh no, now Iโm going to have to check the website even more often to grab the good stuff before it sells outโฆ
I hate APC raw jeans, theyโre just impossible to wear, they feel like cardboard. It takes weeks to make them a bit comfortable.
Great thread. I recently got back into raw but didnโt want the big price tag and got Leviโs STF. I think for $50 theyโve been great, lack some of the details of fine denim but look better than stretch and have a nice weight. (These are about a month old)
Great thread! Very cool to see youโre a fan. Iโve been shopping there since 2007 and they got me so into denim I eventually brought back 9 pairs of jeans from a trip to Japan (future-proofed with wider cuts I knew would eventually come back in style.)
Best quality
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My old time favorite was Leviโs 501 shrink to fit. They had one certain blue color (donโt remember now which one) that was heavier weight than all the others and worn in great. They stopped producing that color and the jeans just donโt sit well anymore.
APCs are my favorite raw denim. My only complaint about raw denim in general is sizing. Some fit really tight especially when brand new.
one of the best guides I've seen, surprised to see dutil 
on there
would love to see one on leather jackets 
on there
would love to see one on leather jackets 
I was dead-set against stretch jeans until I got back into martial arts and realized I couldn't do anything, like *anything*, I trained wearing regular denim unless it was cut like MC Hammer pants. Now I'm a semi-stretchy Lee guy, but I definitely want to check out.
You are an absolute legend. Iโm a suburban mom and former tomboy who never developed a sense of style, yet I read your threads in entirety simply because I love your style of writing and precise, beautiful use of language.
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Halo! here is your unroll: threadreaderapp.com/thread/1869867 Share this if you think it's interesting. 
Jeans that I love to wear have pockets large enough to fit my big ass iPhone, no patterns on the back pocket, and a zipper fly. It's actually hard to find that in any of the high end denim brands.
Great thread! Two quick thoughts you might see: the one thing I remember from this fun Jeff Goldblum visit to Levi's HQ was that the guy who makes Levi's -never- washes his :)
Would be great if you could do a thread on how to fit athletes. I have 4 sons of which 2 continue to play pro and high level junior competitive hockey. Getting them into apparel they like, fit and will wear is super hard. And the youngest hates jeans...
Been on the raw denim wagon for a few years. Now each time I gotta buy a pair I look up your tweets. That led me to get the Ooe Yofukutenโs cinchbacks railroad cone denim.
Most men have no idea what good fitting jeans look like. When every model is skinny, those of us that are med/lrg never have a visual cue of what is supposed to look good. Until more menโs companyโs use more realistic models, men will never learn.
I love reading your threads, Derek, but as you often note, you restrict yourself to menswear. Do you have suggestions for women who write about what you do, but for, Yโknow, women? I would love to follow you both. Happy Holidays, and thank you for your work.
Fantastic thread that Iโll certainly be putting to use soon as I no longer fit some of my jeans. Question: Does the amount of pooling at the bottom matter as much when it comes to jeans? I know for slacks and trousers the leg break is a thing, but was curious in regards to jeans.
I do appreciate this thread itโs an interesting read and itโs very informative for someone looking to take their Jean game more seriously. Iโm currently in the market looking for more durable jeans, Iโm not happy with some main stream jeans quality as of late.
I have a pair of jeans made from one of the last runs of Cone denim in Greensboro, North Carolina. Only time ever Iโve regretted reducing my waist line. Often wondered if possible to โtailorโ. Either way keeping forever. Maybe Iโll grow back into them!
I used to be exclusively shrink to fit button fly 501s but itโs been probably 8 yrs and Iโm scared they are gonna let me down when I go to buy replacements.
I've always enjoyed reading your threads even though most of it doesn't apply to me. But I will take this jeans thread to heart.
I buy LL Bean jeans, for one reason: because they're the only brand I can find that sells jeans with a 29-inch inseam. There may be others, but I can't find them. They fit well, and at $59.95, they're reasonably priced.
Great post!! Thank you for opening me up to new brands. Quick questionโฆ my jeans all wear very fast in the upper thigh/crotch area . I buy expensive designer brands and I donโt want to throw out. Is there a repair suggestion or pro active solution to my problems?
I have just about given up on jeans because the 9"-10" rise is just too low for me. Hurts to sit down in them and the waist cuts into my hips.
Anyone out there who makes a longer rise for those with longtorsoitis?
Great thread - Tellason denim is also top notch and worth looking into. Japanese denim, USA made, small company, insane customer service. Just released an 18 oz in their straight leg, and a new wide silhouette.
Great thread! One question. No matter what jeans I buy, whether selvedge, heavier denim, varying price points, after 6-9 months they always wear thin at the inside thigh. Is there anything to look out for to avoid that, or is it unavoidable for the larger legged gentleman?
My guy. I love your threads, admire your knowledge and adore the respect you have for people and life in general. Appreciate youโฆ
Great stuff, but can you help me understand what size raw denim to buy?
Iโve been told to go up 2โ in the waist and length because the denim will shrink so much.
But they look so goofy when I try that size on, I canโt bring myself to actually buy them. Thanks.
Do you have any suggestion for raw denim for guys with bigger legs (cyclists, weightlifters)? Most jeans are really tight in my calves and at this point I almost feel like I need bespoke jeans to not have something too baggy.
What about denim jackets.
What should we look for to find the perfect men's denim jacket?
As a former o.g. wirecutter writer, I'm almost shocked they didn't think to... interview... you... for the piece. Seems like a pretty obvious miss (unless one hasn't been on social media in the last year or something)
Other good options for raw denim: . Good American brands :
Menswear guy if I am ever invited to a formal event will you critique my outfit ahead of time
My favourite pair of jeans ever are Martin Resin Rinse from Raleigh Denim. Theyโre a small fortune but great quality, fit and look. And the shopping experience in Raleigh is special. Workshop in the back, retail shop on the front, kickass brewery next door.
Iโll always wear slim jeans because despite my age Iโll always be a punk rocker at heart. If I keep my weight down Iโll always feel comfortable wearing slim jeans despite fashion trends
When I was starting my fashion journey around this time last year, I got my first pair of real jeans (Leviโs 505s) and after a year of wear, they may be one of my best purchases so far. Looking back, do I wish I did more research? Yesโฆ but theyโre still a great pair of jeans
Do you have a guide for someone trying to โfind their styleโ and shop good quality accordingly?
Or a resource for someone trying to do so?
Great thread as usual but I think you mistook raw denim from selvedge a few times here
Not bad wish you had mentioned more styles of fit but overall 9/10 thread. I love me relaxed fit jeans for work but wear tighter straight legs when going to the bar for example
Fantastic thread. My 2 favorite pairs of jeans are both raw denim from Kapital and Stevenson. But I also like Leviโs for a third of the price. The 568 Loose Straight model is a nice easy fit with great shape
Okay but what about the length they should be (depending on the shoe) because sometimes they look weird at the ankles
Great thread (as always). Do you have a view on Hiroshi Kato? Been seeing them all over my social media. They purport to be American made, selvedge denim.
Do you have a guide on how to style (and how not to style) skinny jeans on men?
Those gustins are like 130 if you buy from their stock; if you go in on an order Iโm not sure of the price. They have alot of nice options for jeans at decent prices, self edge is always a treat and the money is always worth it. Any jeans I have from them last decades
Gear that works as hard as you do. Learn more about Epik Workwear 
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Please have a look at these people: Not the U.S. but a small company in Wales formed following a major closed after 40 years production . Highly recommend. Their products made from high quality materials. It is doesn't fit, sent it back & they send you another.
Oh yes! I was looking forward to this post!! Thanks a million for explaining this stuff!
I have some jeans I love, but they are so old I have no idea who made them, or where they came from. How can I find this information. All I have is the tag with many numbers.
What do you think of Naked & Famous brand raw selvedge denim? I bought a pair & could not even wear it, it was like a cardboard & not comfortable at all. Any advice? Thanks for all the great content
Iโve been waiting for you to do this 
for a long time! Thank you!!!! Love your style and advice
for a long time! Thank you!!!! Love your style and advice
My problem with all denim jeans, break โem, beat โem up, make โem beautifulโฆ and the pockets all wear out!
Ok but where do I get that jacket in the first picture?
Great thread. Iโm female and love basic jeans. Never, ever wore acid washed. Wore only raw Leviโs & Leeโs in my teens & 20s. Now that Iโm no spring chicken, I shop for jeans with at least 95% cotton, which is becoming increasingly harder to find.
How the hell do I shop for good belts? This is one of those things I've always been very confused about. I grew up getting a new, really thick "Amish" belt and wearing that until it broke.
This is a hard agree, but at some point many of us become an A.P.C brand slave, i think the value for money for its product (material, finish, fit and color) japan genes would be japan blue jeans although branding wise i believe not many people like it though
is USA based and makes the best quality raw denim jeans I have found
When I was in HS I was tiny. 501's had my exact size. Mom bought them at Benos and then would work her magic. They were crunch and then they were perfect!
